LONDON — A decade after opening an American headquarters, the Tokyo-based sportswear and outdoor brand Goldwin is looking to put retail expansion in motion, and that begins with raising cultural awareness by dressing two Kabuki stars during a performance at Carnegie Hall on Friday night.
Natsuko Koike, global marketing director at Goldwin, said global expansion is a core strategy in the brand’s new midterm plan for 2025–2029, with a particular focus on the U.S. market.
More from WWD
Building on its experience and supply network in ski products and the brand’s C3fit technology used in compression garments — the three Cs stand for compression, conditioning and comfort — Koike said the Goldwin brand aims to reach 50 billion yen, or $324.5 million at current exchange, in sales within the next decade through store development tailored to regional characteristics and expansion on direct-to-consumer channels.
Through running Goldwin America since 2014, Koike said the company learned that conveying the appeal of high-performance materials and design requires knowledgeable professionals and locally rooted strategies.
“It also became clear that product understanding takes time and proper customer education, and that careful, steady expansion is the key to success rather than rapid growth,” Koike continued, adding that the company’s goal is to further increase retail presence across North America and enhance brand awareness.
“An Evening of Traditional Japanese Arts,” a performance that highlights the heritage and evolution of Noh and Kabuki theater, taiko drumming, and the three-stringed shamisen at Carnegie Hall, presented an ideal stage for Goldwin to showcase its philosophy of “dedication to detail” through respecting both tradition and innovation in Japanese culture and the brand.
“Supporting the Kabuki performance at Carnegie Hall reflects this commitment and creates a meaningful opportunity to connect with new audiences who appreciate cultural value,” Koike added.
Two Kabuki performers, Denjiro Tanaka and Hayato Nakamura, wore semiformal black ensembles from Goldwin during the performance.
Tanaka, 48, who comes from a prestigious family of Noh and Kabuki in Japan, said his Goldwin look projected a sense of playfulness, while Nakamura, who has appeared in various Kabuki productions as well as TV dramas and commercials, said the pieces are very comfortable to wear, especially the pants, designed with a slightly relaxed fit, which creates a nice sense of ease.
Goldwin’s Koike revealed that sponsoring the event helps build local networks and support Kabuki as a cultural heritage. And it also aligns with the strategic timing of its planned New York flagship opening in March 2026. It will be the brand’s first stand-alone store in the U.S.
“We aim to deepen the brand’s identity as high performance meets Japanese culture, enhancing recognition and trust in the U.S. market,” Koike said.
In addition to the U.S., China and Europe remain key focus for Goldwin, with further emphasis on premium segments in China, South Korea and Southeast Asia.
By 2033, the company said it plans to open around 113 Goldwin stores globally, with the majority of them in China.
A listed company on the Tokyo Stock Exchange, Goldwin reported a 10.2 percent increase in sales in the quarter ended Sept. 30, 2025. It projects group sales for the fiscal year ending March 31, 2026, will increase 6.2 percent, operating profits rising 18.2 percent and net income climbing 3.9 percent.
Besides running its namesake label, it owns the rights to The North Face in Japan and South Korea.
In the recent trading quarter, it operated 168 stores globally, including 14 Goldwin stores across Japan, China and Germany, 104 The North Face units, and 50 under brands including Helly Hansen, Woolrich, Icebreaker, Macpac, Fischer, Sunski, Neutralworks, Play Earth Kids, Canterbury, Speedo, And Per Se, Allbirds and Profecio.
The Goldwin brand was founded in 1951, starting as a knit fabric manufacturer before evolving into a high-performance apparel company. The brand originally focused on skiwear and now offers a range of products for outdoor activities, sports and lifestyle wear.
Best of WWD
Sign up for WWD’s Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.