A Self-Guided Route Through Fes El Bali

If there’s one place in Morocco that will make you feel like you’ve stepped straight into a time machine, it’s the medina of Fes. And I’m not exaggerating — every narrow alleyway, every carved archway, every scent of cedar and spice tells a story that’s centuries old.

I recently came across a fantastic little video guide in Darija (Moroccan Arabic) that maps out the perfect walking route through Fes El Bali, and I just had to turn it into a full blog post for you. So grab a pen, note down these tips, and let’s wander through the oldest medina in Morocco — without getting lost. Well… mostly without getting lost.

Start at the Iconic Bab Boujloud

Every great Fes adventure begins at Bab Boujloud — that stunning blue-and-green tiled gate that you’ve probably seen plastered across every Morocco travel guide (for good reason). This is your entry point into Fes El Bali, as the locals call it. Take a moment to soak it in before diving into the labyrinth. Trust me, you’ll want that mental snapshot.

First Stop: Bou Inania Madrasa (20 MAD)

Just inside the gate, you’ll encounter your first jaw-dropping monument — the Bou Inania Madrasa. Built in the 14th century, this is one of the most important historical schools in Fes. The intricate carvings, the peaceful courtyard, the sheer craftsmanship… it’s the kind of place that makes you stand still and just look.

Entry fee: 20 Dirhams (roughly €2)

Tip: Right across from the madrasa, look up! You’ll spot the famous water clock (Dar al-Magana). It’s a medieval hydraulic clock that has fascinated visitors and historians alike. It’s one of those details that’s easy to miss if you’re not paying attention, so keep your eyes peeled.

The Mausoleum of Moulay Idris (Free Entry)

Continue along the main path and you’ll reach the Mausoleum of Moulay Idris II, the founder of Fes and one of Morocco’s most revered saints. The entrance is free, which is always a nice bonus.

This is a sacred site, so be respectful. Even if you can’t enter every area as a non-Muslim visitor, the atmosphere around the mausoleum is something special — you’ll feel the deep spiritual significance this place holds for Moroccans.

Don’t miss this: Right opposite the mausoleum, you’ll find vendors selling Moulay Idris sweets — nougat! It’s a local specialty and the perfect little treat to fuel the rest of your walk. Sweet, chewy, and totally addictive.

Al-Attarine Madrasa (20 MAD)

A short walk from the mausoleum brings you to the Al-Attarine Madrasa, and oh my — the artistry here is breathtaking.

The decorations cover literally every surface, from floor to ceiling: carved plaster (gebs), intricate woodwork, and stunning zellij (the geometric tilework Morocco is famous for). And here’s something beautiful — if you look closely at the patterns, you’ll notice they incorporate verses from the Holy Quran. For example, parts of Ayat al-Kursi are woven into the zellij tilework. It’s art, faith, and craftsmanship all in one.

Entry fee: 20 Dirhams

Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque & University

Not far from Al-Attarine, you’ll find the legendary University of al-Qarawiyyin — recognized as the oldest existing university in the world. And here’s a fact I never get tired of sharing: it was founded by a woman, Fatima al-Fihriya, in 859 AD. Let that sink in for a moment.

The mosque is an active place of worship, so access may be limited for non-Muslim visitors, but even peeking through the doors at the vast prayer hall is an unforgettable experience.

Seffarine Square: The Sound of Copper

Follow the winding streets to Place Seffarine (Seffarine Square), and you’ll hear it before you see it — the rhythmic clink-clink-clink of hammers on metal. This is where coppersmiths and brass workers have been crafting their wares for generations. Pots, trays, teapots, lamps — everything is handmade right in front of you.

It’s one of the most atmospheric spots in the medina. Grab a mint tea nearby and just watch the artisans at work.

The Tanneries: Living History

No visit to Fes is complete without seeing the tanneries, and there’s more than one option.

Chouara Tannery (Free Entry)

The Chouara Tannery is the most famous and the largest of the three tanneries in Fes. The entrance is free, and the sight of those colorful stone vats from above is truly iconic. What makes this place even more incredible is that master craftsmen are still working here to this day, using methods that have barely changed over centuries.

You’ll likely be offered a sprig of mint to hold under your nose — take it. The smell is… an experience.

Guerniz Tannery (The Hidden Gem)

If you want a more intimate, less touristy experience, seek out the Guerniz Tannery. It’s smaller than Chouara, but that’s exactly its charm — far fewer tourists, and the craftsmen are still actively working. It feels like a genuine peek behind the curtain, rather than a stop on the tourist trail.

Budget Breakdown for the Walking Tour

Here’s a quick summary of what you’ll spend on entry fees:

Not bad for a world-class walking tour through living history, right?

Practical Tips for Exploring Fes El Bali

Wear comfortable shoes. The medina streets are uneven, often cobblestoned, and full of surprise slopes. Leave the cute sandals at the riad.

Go early. The medina gets crowded and hot (especially in summer). Starting your walk in the morning means cooler temperatures and thinner crowds.

Carry small bills. Having change in 10 and 20 dirham notes makes paying entry fees and buying snacks much easier.

Don’t be afraid to get a little lost. I know, I know — the whole point of this guide is to help you not get lost. But some of the best moments in Fes happen when you wander off the beaten path and stumble onto something unexpected. Just keep Bab Boujloud as your mental anchor point.

Respect the culture. Fes El Bali is not a museum — it’s a living, breathing neighborhood. People live, work, pray, and raise families here. Dress modestly, ask before photographing people, and approach everything with curiosity and respect.

Have you explored Fes El Bali? I’d love to hear about your experience! Drop a comment below or find me on social media. And if you’re planning your first trip to Fes, don’t be afraid — just be a little bewildered. That’s the best way to experience it.